Unagi no Kabayaki: Japan's Hidden Culinary Gem

Japanese cuisine has been globally recognized for quite some time, yet one dish that still seems to lack its deserved recognition is unagi no kabayaki, or grilled eel.

Originally established as a cuisine in Japan in the 17th century, eel was abundant in Tokyo's waterways at the time, making it affordable. Loved as a high-calorie, high-protein fast food option, it was cherished.

However, today, due to climate change and river development, Japanese eel populations have decreased. Additionally, full-scale farming of eel is challenging, leading to daily price increases, classifying it as a relatively upscale delicacy now.

There are two main methods of preparing kabayaki. The so-called "Kanto(East)-style" involves butterflying the eel, grilling it lightly first, then steaming it before adding the sauce. Steaming makes the skin tender, easily cut with chopsticks, resulting in a melt-in-your-mouth texture.

In contrast, the "Kansai(West)-style" keeps the eel's belly intact, grills it directly with the sauce, skipping steaming or light grilling. This method results in a crispy, golden surface with a juicy, substantial interior.

The boundary between these cooking styles is believed to be around Hamamatsu City in Shizuoka Prefecture, although it's not entirely clear-cut. In Nagoya, located at the midway point between the east and west, a unique variation called "hitsumabushi" has emerged, where eel is served over rice with dashi poured over it, creating another delicious option.

Among eel artisans, there's a famous saying: "Three years to master skewering, eight years to master splitting, a lifetime to master grilling." Just like sushi or tempura, becoming skilled in the art of preparing eel takes years of practice.

The artisan's skill significantly influences the taste, and different restaurants can offer quite distinct flavors, so I encourage you to explore and find your personal favorite.

Eel offers substantial variations despite its simplicity, making it one of its charms. If you encounter someone abroad who can discuss their favorite eel restaurant or grilling technique, as a Japanese person, you can't help but be impressed.

If you haven't tried it yet, I hope this article encourages you to take your first step toward becoming an eel connoisseur.